Photos on the fabric: Vivian Ainsalu

Models: Felix Roomets, Ando Kiidron

Photos: Andero Kalju

Correlating unconventional patterns and traditional tailoring in mens coats is the central subject matter of my diploma thesis. The relevance of it becomes apparent when we look at the current state of the textile industry where fast fashion and rapid developement of new techniques, fueld by the indifference of the consumer is slowly abandoning the traditions that have been carefully kept and passed on by previous generations.

Due to the fact, that fast fashion sets pressure on todays youth to always have the latest, but not the best, this kind of behaviour jeopardizes the preservation and surival of classical designs and tailoring practises.

In the first part of the thesis I will be researching origin and evolution of mens tailoring, forms and details of different types of coats to simplify their classification. Regardless of new machinery being introduced and countless years of development, the practices of tailoring have remained relatively unchanged, roughly 75% of the work is still made by hand, because that is the best way to achieve perfect fit between a coat and it’s wearer. Regional differences are still very noticeable. English style is the most formal with strongly contoured shoulders, due to warmer climate, the Neapolitan style is considerably thinner, softer garments. American heritage of tailoring is recognized by a casual, looser fit that supports movement, hence the name American sportswear. The differences in patterns and heritage have made these three styles unique regarding pattern and print. By analyzing traditional menswear and the patterns used then and now, it would seem that little has changed in that particular area of tailoring.

Each individual body type has one of a kind characteristics that make every order unique, why not take it further and make tailored clothing even more personal by creating an individually designed fabric, which to my surprise was never even a topic when I took my mens tailoring course.

My goal is to create a technique, that would help make traditional tailoring attractive once again, and also make it more appealing to younger generations as well, who are not familiar with traditional tailoring.

For the experimental pattern I have chosen female nudes, which on menswear are not something new or groundbreaking, but to use them for creating the pattern of the fabric itself, is something that has not been used widely. I have a vison where the 2 dimensional female body on 3 dimensional man can be used much more creatively and it would offer significantly more design opportunities than conventional patterns.

The recent improvements of techinal possibilities in the textile industry have given us new ways to personalise the products, which means that mass production of singularly designed products is disappearing quickly. The whole industry is in change, the background knowledge of fabric